Hey everyone! Mr. Arigato here with an update from the Frame Arms Official Blog.
Did you see our blog on Shadow Tiger?
We’ve had a lot of fans asking us about how we made the paint masters for White Tiger and Shadow Tiger look so good.
Well, the answer is weathering! We don’t usually weather our models for the photos of the finished product, but we wanted to do justice to the awesome design by Yoji Shinkawa.
In order to guide you through the process, we’ve recruited the help of Endo-san from Robo Samurai, who created the paint master for White Tiger.
Hello, nice to meet you.
My name is Endo, and I’m a freelance Mech sculptor and finisher from Robo Samurai (@end_robosamurai). I’ve taken on many roles in my collaborations with Kotobukiya, and today I’ll be taking on the role of guide as I teach you how I did the weathering for White Tiger.
I was asked to keep it simple enough that even first time modelers can follow along, so today I’ll be introducing a technique I use a lot that uses toothpicks.
Normally I would use a fine tipped brush to the weathering bit by bit, but that can be difficult if you’re not used to using a brush, so I’m going to teach you a fast and easy way to get a similar effect.
Incidentally, the paint master for White Tiger also uses this technique.
I figured I would do the tutorial with just two or three pieces of armor, but when I requested the parts from Kotobukiya, they gave me the whole upper body (lol).
Before you start, you’ll need to assemble, paint, and panel line the model.
When assembling the model, sharpening up the edges will make the weathering look more realistic.
When choosing your paint, it’s important to take the gloss of the paint into consideration. The amount of gloss in a paint will determine how much of a stain or wash will remain on the model. The more matte the paint is, the more the staining will stick.
(Use this concept to control the appearance and stain of your model).
Typically you’ll want to use a semi-gloss.
First I finished painting my pieces.
For panel lining, I used a weathering color by Creos, applying bit by bit with a fine tipped brush and applying a bit of wash and filter in the process.
The chipping will be the main focus of the weathering, so there’s no need to spend too much time washing and filtering.
Once it dries we’re ready to move on to the main event.
Here’s are the tools you’ll need:
It’s important that you use oil paint.
Modeling shops may not have a lot of color options for oil paint, but as long as there’s one called “burnt umber” you’re good to go.
(You can also try an art shop, or if you don’t have one near you there’s always the internet).
First you’ll want to squeeze out some paint onto your scrap paper. Paper is a good palette for oil paints because it will soak up some of the excess oil, making the paint easier to work with.
Cover the tip of your toothpick thoroughly with paint.
Once your toothpick is ready, roll the painted end along the edge of the part as shown by the yellow arrow in the picture below.
It’s important to get into a good rhythm but also keep a good variation to the motions.
Try to imagine which parts might see the most wear.
You can make the chipping more severe in some places by pulling the toothpick towards yourself (depicted by the white arrow in the picture).
When you want to add damaged spots to the surface of the parts, you can use the tip of the toothpick.
Once you’ve finished a part, lightly dab the painted bits with some enamel thinner on a fine tipped brush to make the color run. I recommend Gaianotes’ enamel thinners because they’re easy on the plastic.
Using these techniques will give it a realistic rusted appearance.
At this stage you can make adjustments, such as changing the shape of the chipping, washing off parts you don’t like, extending the rusted bits, or thinning out the colors with a filter.
The part on the left is an example with thinned out colors.
That’s the general gist of it, but it’s a bit hard to grasp with just text, so I also made a video ↓
The advantage of this technique is that you can incorporate a lot of different effects as you go.
Repeat the same process for all of the parts.
Oil paint takes a long time to dry, but make sure to be patient.
(Drying time varies by color, but there should be an estimate written on the paint tube. This burnt umber takes around two days).
I feel like letting it dry naturally gives it a better appearance.
…Maybe it’s just my imagination though, lol.
Once the paint has dried, we’ll work on shaving down the edges.
This is a special artist’s pencil, but you can just use a regular one.
Go over the chipped places to give them a dull metallic sheen.
Once you’ve finished that, you can assemble the model.
It’d be boring if I made it exactly like the paint master, so I switched up the color scheme a little bit.
For the fin parts, I dry-brushed Mr. Metal Color’s “dark iron” on top of a black gloss.
The exposed shoulder joints were looking a bit sad, so I made covers for them using M.S.G parts.
I also made a special base for even more impact.
And that concludes my weathering tutorial!
All it takes is one color of paint and a toothpick, so I hope you’ll give it a shot!
About the Author:
Based in Fukushima. In addition to sculpting and finishing mechs for major model makers, Endo also develops and sells garage kits and original modeling tools through his brand Robosamurai.